Reflections on my conversation with Carlotta Salvini of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino
By Mihai Popescu IWA
Photo Credit: Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino
I have now had the privilege of visiting Montalcino twice for Benvenuto Brunello, and each time I leave with the same feeling: this is one of the world’s great red wine territories, not only because of its prestige, but because of its consistency, its identity, and the remarkable diversity it offers from one producer to another, from one slope to another, and from one vintage to another. Benvenuto Brunello itself remains the Consorzio’s flagship preview event, centered on the new vintage release and open to press, trade, and wine lovers through different formats.
During one of those visits, I had the chance to meet Carlotta Salvini in person, after already being impressed by the level of communication, organization, and educational value that the Consorzio brings to the region. In our interview for the Italian Wine Podcast, what emerged very clearly was not just a discussion about Brunello di Montalcino as an iconic wine, but about how Montalcino is managing to keep tradition alive while adapting intelligently to climate, to market realities, and to the way people actually drink wine today.
Brunello is adapting, not changing its identity
One of the strongest takeaways from my conversation with Carlotta was that Montalcino is not static. It is rooted in tradition, but it is not stuck in it.
As she explained, Brunello Forma, the Consorzio’s new vintage evaluation system, was created because “there was a need for a more transparent, contemporary approach tailored to Sangiovese.” The new model replaces the former star rating system with a framework that combines geo-referenced climatic data, chemical analysis, and blind tastings by an international panel of Masters of Wine. The Consorzio describes it as a contemporary, objective, data-driven framework designed specifically for Sangiovese and the unique ecosystem of Montalcino.
This is not a cosmetic change. It says a lot about how the region sees itself today.
Brunello has always had prestige. Historically, the denomination became a DOC in 1966, the Consorzio was founded in 1967, and Brunello became one of Italy’s first DOCGs in 1980. But what I appreciate is that Montalcino is not using history as an excuse to stay still. It is using its foundations to move forward with consistency and authenticity.
And this adaptation is visible in the vineyards too. Over my visits, I have seen just how much attention is being paid to parcel surveillance, weather tracking, and precision in the vineyard.
Whether it is the technology used by estates like Corte Pavone or the sensor-driven approach behind Brunello Forma, the message is clear: this is a region taking climate seriously, investing in understanding each site more deeply, and giving producers better tools to work with what nature gives them.
That matters, because Montalcino is a small appellation, but far from homogeneous. As Carlotta said in our conversation, “within the denomination, there is so much diversity.” She described the region as a kind of pyramid, with significant differences in altitude, exposure, and soils from north to south and east to west. That diversity is one of the keys to understanding why one grape — Sangiovese — can produce such a wide range of expressions here.
And from my own tastings over two editions of Benvenuto Brunello, and hundreds of wines from different producers and vintages, I can say this with confidence: Brunello offers one of the most satisfying senses of exploration within a classic style anywhere in the wine world.
Altitude matters. Soils matter. Exposure matters. But so do winemaking choices, élevage decisions, and the philosophy of each producer. Even within a denomination so closely tied to one grape and one place, there is no such thing as one single Brunello style.
Brunello can be enjoyed now — and still reward patience
If there is one misconception I hear too often, especially from consumers who are curious but intimidated, it is this: Brunello must be kept for 10, 15, or 20 years before it is ready.
That idea is outdated.
Of course, Brunello remains one of the great age-worthy wines of the world. The historical record of longevity is very real, and the production rules still reflect that serious structure and ambition. But what is equally true today is that many Brunellos can offer enormous pleasure much earlier than people think.
Carlotta put it well when discussing the denomination: “from the powerful age-worthy Brunello to the fresher and more immediate style of Rosso, let’s say contemporary style of a Sangiovese… this is just one grape variety, but you have an enormous amount of diversity within the wines and the producers.”
That word — diversity — matters here again.
Some Brunellos will absolutely reward long cellaring. Others, especially in recent vintages and with more precise tannin management and cleaner, more transparent winemaking, can already be extremely enjoyable in their youth. To me, the real message is not that Brunello has stopped aging well. It is that aging potential should not be turned into a rigid rule that discourages people from opening the bottle.
Brunello can be enjoyed now, and it can also reward patience. These two things can exist at the same time.
In fact, the official Brunello Forma language for the 2020 vintage reflects that shift very well. The Consorzio calls 2020 a benchmark of modern elegance and describes it as “expressive, balanced and accessible,” while the annual statement summarizes it as “captivating, succulent and bright.” For 2021, the official profile is “fragrant, refined, slender.”
This is exactly the kind of nuance the old star system could never communicate well enough.
Rosso di Montalcino is not a second wine — it is the answer to modern drinking habits
One of the strongest parts of my conversation with Carlotta was the way she spoke about Rosso di Montalcino. This is a category that, in my opinion, deserves much more respect and much more attention from consumers.
As she said very clearly: “Rosso di Montalcino right now is no longer seen as a second wine within the appellation and also in the market. I believe it’s a modern expression of Montalcino as it can offer accessibility, freshness and also typicity.”
That is exactly right.
Rosso is not just declassified Brunello. It is not just the wine you buy when you do not want to spend on Brunello. It has its own identity and its own role. It is one of the clearest answers to today’s demand for lighter reds, earlier drinking styles, and more immediate pleasure — without losing the stamp of place.
Carlotta also made another excellent point when she said that producers are “increasingly investing in Rosso di Montalcino as a standalone product.” That is important. It shows that the region understands market demand, but is not responding by diluting its identity. Instead, it is expressing Montalcino through a different lens.
And that lens is incredibly relevant today.
Consumers are drinking differently. Warmer weather stretches into more months of the year. Restaurants need versatile reds. Many wine lovers want freshness, energy, and drinkability. Rosso di Montalcino answers that beautifully. It is, in many cases, the answer to the shift toward lighter reds.
I have said it before and I will say it again: a well-made Rosso di Montalcino served slightly cooler can be one of the most satisfying red wines on the table.
Montalcino remains one of wine’s safest and most rewarding classics
We are in a market where many consumers are slowing down, spending more carefully, and taking fewer risks. And when that happens, people often return to the classics.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of those classics.
It stays true to its identity. It delivers for the price. It offers real character and real consistency. And unlike some lesser-known regions that may reach similarly ambitious price points without always offering the same reliability, Brunello continues to justify its place as one of the pillars of red wine around the world.
That does not mean every producer is identical, far from it. One of the great strengths of Montalcino is precisely that there is so much diversity within the denomination. But the baseline remains high, and that matters.
As Carlotta said when we discussed difficult market conditions, “it’s really important in these times to be consistent,” because consistency helps maintain “reputation, credibility” and build loyalty with consumers, trade, and press.
Brunello is, and will remain, one of those wines you can come back to with confidence. It rarely disappoints, it offers both pleasure and seriousness. It gives beginners a reliable entry into fine wine, while giving more experienced drinkers endless room to compare producers, vintages, styles, and terroirs.
And Montalcino today is more than just a denomination, it is also a destination. The region has long positioned itself strongly in wine tourism, with visits, hospitality, and cellar experiences deeply embedded in its culture. The Consorzio itself notes that Montalcino helped lead the way in wine tourism, with guided tours and a region that welcomes visitors from around the world.
That is something I have seen firsthand as well, vineyards are prepared not only to receive visitors, but to create meaningful experiences: tours, food and wine pairings, and the kind of hospitality that brings the place to life.
Montalcino keeps its traditions, but it blends them with modernity. It respects its past, while communicating much more clearly to the present.
Photo Credit: Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino & Mihai Popescu’s personal archive.
Listen to the Full Conversation with Carlotta Salvini:
