By Julyana Fiorin, IWA
Day two of our Gita Scolastica with the Vinitaly International Academy in Etna, Sicily, was one of those days that feels long in the best possible way: packed, intense, and generous. The kind of day when you fall into bed tired, but with your head still spinning from aromas, landscapes, and conversations.
Donnafugata & Tornatore: Precision, Hospitality, and Etna’s International Voice
We started at Donnafugata, and the experience unfolded in layers. Donnafugata wines are always a joy to taste, with their fun and iconic labels and very precise vinification. At certain moments, the sky opened and we could clearly see the volcano (or The Mountain – I should say) in activity, a powerful reminder of where we were and why this place matters. We walked through old vineyards, touched history still rooted in lava soils, and tasted the few small grapes that remained on the vines. We were even spoiled and got to taste wine from the barriques! Simple moments, but deeply grounding. Donnafugata showed not only structure and vision, but also a very real connection to Etna’s living force.
Lunch at Tornatore was prepared with great care, and you could feel it in every detail. We enjoyed a meal made with true attention and warmth, true Sicilian style. The wines have a very distinctive profile, one that travels well and clearly facilitates international sales. They are approachable and speak a language that is easy to understand.
I Custodi and Planeta: Etna Wines Shaped by Time, Terroir, and Intent
In the afternoon, we visited I Custodi, where Etna reveals a more introspective side. Volcanic stones and silence define the landscape. We tasted super interesting older vintages from 2011, 2013, and 2016, observing how Etna continues to battle one of its greatest challenges: time. The wines showed tension, resilience, and evolution, shaped by patience, restraint, and deep respect for the mountain.
We ended the day at Planeta. Instead of touring the winery, a tasting table was set in the middle of the tank room, allowing us to experience wine exactly where transformation happens. The aromas of the space, where the magic takes place, blended naturally with what was in the glass. I was particularly surprised by the Pinot Noir and the Riesling. International varieties, yes. Even in a land with countless compelling autochthonous options, they shone with clarity, balance, and identity. A clear example of how intention and terroir can elevate any grape.
Dinner welcomed us with the aroma of burning wood, art in the space around us, and beauty in the glass. Art in the field and in the glass came together effortlessly, closing the day with warmth and depth.
This was the second day of our trip to Etna. Read about the first day, and stay tuned for the upcoming blogs.
Learn more about the Vinitaly International Academy and listen to our guest hosts’ interviews with their favorite producers here.


